Monday, November 23, 2015

Relaxing in Tandil, Argentina

Instead of traveling by bus down the east coast of Argentina as I originally hoped to do, I've spent the last nine days taking a from being a tourist and resting up before the last stage of my travels. I've been hanging out with my VIF friend Mirta in Tandil. It's about four hours south of Buenos Aries. A city of 120,000 people, where all the shops close from 1 - 4pm each day for siesta time. A city without any international fast food chains, they were shocked when I described how many Launceston has. Instead it has beautiful local produce, like processed meats and cheeses and had many great local restaurants. They even have a farm high school that commercially produces cheese and dulce de leche.



This week involved eating lots of veggies as they had been hard to find in Chilean and Argentinean restaurants. But it also involved eating authentic Argentinean food and developing a taste for Malbec wine.



The week started with Mirta's brother in law cooking Asado, Argentinean bbq for Sunday family lunch. Mirta's 16 year old nephew was my translator and informed me that you must purchase 500 grams of beef per person and it is always cooked by the man of the house, outside in a special wood fired bbq. The meat is eaten with crusty bread and wine. I enjoyed the roast beef and the chorizo but not the intestines!





We finished off with some traditional music.



This week I discovered my favourite Argentinean dessert, "flan casero mixto". Homemade flan with real cream and dulce de leche, I think I might need to learn how to cook it.



From my last visit to Tandil I had developed a fondness for Figlio ice cream. The banana split is still my favourite, with banana ice cream but note also lemon meringue pie, a three layer ice cream. Ice cream is a big deal in Argentina, particularly creamy, handmade ice cream. Ice cream is sold by cup size, as it isn't scooped and then weight for over 250 grams.







I also spent three afternoons being a guest in English classes from grade six through to teacher training. My favourite was an adult conversational class, I'm inspired to start up one at home as it was so much fun. My favourite trick was to tell them we eat kangaroo in Australia, it always got a great reaction. Most reckon they couldn't eat it!



One afternoon we were tourists with a student and visited the new Christ statue that watches over Tandil. It was built because the pope suggested Tandil needed one and is located on Pope Francisco Way.



We had planned to spend the long weekend in Buenos Aries but due to the unexpected presidential run off election we couldn't abd the long weekend wad moved to next weekend anyway.

Voting is very different in Argentina to Australia. There are no postal or early votes, and you must be further than 500km away to be exempted from voting (and go to a police station to complete a signed statement).

To vote you must turn up to your assigned table at your assigned school (320 - 350 people per table). After showing your id you're given an envelope and go into the matching classroom, where the windows have been covered and select the paper slip for the party of your choice and place it in your envelope. Then you bring it back to the ballot box for your table. Nobody else is allowed in the voting room with you. There are four teachers assigned to each table for the day, working without being paid. The two schools we went to had 4 - 7 tables each. Tables are assigned alphabetically so most married couples must visit two different schools. Each school had at least two armed local police outside. It was an interesting cultural event to accompany Mirta and a friend of hers to.



I'm now well rested ready to complete a three week tour through Patagonia.

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Monday, November 16, 2015

Bus travel and Mendoza

Last week was about lots of time on buses, thankfully long haul buses are very comfortable in Chile and Argentina. Monday was just over six hours as I traveled north from Concepción. In Santiago I was lucky enough to meet up with a friend of a friend who has stored some stuff for me and gave me a walking tour of the city centre.

Tuesday morning I headed to Mendoza, Argentina. This was an eight hour trip but two and a half hours of that was spent getting into Argentina. Customs took rather a long time going through the bags of some people on the bus. The drive up to the border was spectacular but I was glad I wasn't driving.



Wednesday I was honoured that some young women who had volunteered with us in Lima and are currently volunteering three hours away came to spend their day off with me. Thank you Megan, Mollie, Leah and Katrina.



Thursday I planned to go wine tasting but I wasn't feeling up to it. I did do the city bus tour, which wasn't that exciting but I learnt a little history. However I was impressed when my set choice lunch gave me the choice of water or wine and came with salad. Very different to the set menus I've experienced elsewhere in South America.



On my way back to the hotel I stumbled on the Melbourne Coffee Company cafe, which provided a much enjoyed touch of home.



Friday I set off on the longest bus trip of my travels, in the end it was just over 18 hours to get to Tandil. I had booked a "cama" seat, which is meant to be like a bed. This one wasn't quite flat but was comfortable enough that I slept for about 12 hours of the trip. Interestingly after being served lunch on the bus at 1.30pm at 10.30pm we took a 35 minute dinner break at a cafeteria. I'd eaten my snacks many hours before hand.


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Monday, November 9, 2015

Concepcion, Chile

On Friday I travelled six hours south of Santiago to spend the weekend with another VIF friend, Katty. It involved lots of talking, eating and sightseeing.


Katty's Mum baked me a traditional loaf of bread (pictured with Katty's daughter Isabella).


I sampled many kinds of empanadas and now know the secret to baking the best kind. We also had an amazing late lunch at a rustic restaurant in the country. It was located in the garden of a family's home. It was also the first time I've eaten soup with a knife and fork.



While visiting a handicrafts market we stumbled across some traditional dancers. I was asked to dance but Katty went in my place.


We celebrated my birthday with a yummy apple tart and "Happy Birthday" sung in Spanish and English. It was very special to be wished, in Spanish "Happy birthday, aunt" by a two year old. I also had a hot salt water bath by the ocean which was amazing!


Being based on a bay there were beautiful views everywhere we went.


On Sunday we toured a former coal mine. It was very interesting but sad to hear some of the stories.


This rope was used to keep the ten year olds working in the right spot...


Me in the mine with Katty's Dad and her niece, Haverina.

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Rapa Nui

Rapa Nui, aka Easter Island is a remote island of 6000 people five hours flight from Santiago. It is stunningly beautiful, photos don't do it justice especially as it rained on and off for my first two days there. Tourists flock there despite it being extremely expensive. My last minute decision to visit meant I got to fly out Premium Business class, fully flat sleepers have now ruined me!


A volcano crater on the very south of the island. One of the few places that still has native animal and plant life. The lack of water source meant that the native people almost destroyed the native habitat and themselves.

But of course most people come to see the moai (statues) and they are extremely impressive.





Both the restored ones, the ones half submerged in the quarry and the ones scattered around the island, slowly deteriorating. Amazing to think that men spent over a year making each one and then almost as long transporting and setting them up.



Even the cemetery is pretty...

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Monday, November 2, 2015

Antofagasta, VIF reunion #1

This last weekend I took a detour from the tourist trail and visited one of my former VIF colleagues, Luis, in Antofagasta in the north of Chile. It is an interesting city, as the desert meets the ocean. I could see the ocean from his apartment building but yet directly behind me it was clearly the desert.

I was lucky enough to visit Luis's school, on Friday for their MYP expo and then this morning I visited with his sixth grade English class. After answering questions and sharing about Tasmania I made them fairy bread. It was declared, "Rico" (very delicious).


Those of you that know Luis won't be surprised to hear we went out to eat a lot. Great seafood and very strong Pisco Sours.


We saw the local major attractions,


La Portada, a natural monument.


The giant hand, in the middle of the desert 70kms south of Antofagasta. Apparently the other hand is in Uruguay.

We spent Sunday afternoon relaxing with friends at an international festival. There was lots of great international food and dancing but I enjoyed the empanadas and this Chilean singer the most. Of course, when he asked for a volunteer to dance Luis was very quick to respond.




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San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

This wild west, frontier town is a popular stop for tourists coming from Bolivia, before they head to Salta, Argentina. I had just one full day, so I took two different tours. A 5am departure for the Tatia Geysers and then a late afternoon trip to the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) that finished at sunset.


The geysers aren't as spectacular as Old Faithful at Yellowstone National Park but still quite interesting. Breakfast included hot chocolate that had been warmed by being placed near the edge of one. They're extremely hot, a fortnight ago Belgian tourist went too close and fell in one and unfortunately died from the burns she received.


I saw this plant (not a moss apparently) in Bolivia also, it grows just 0.5mm a year so even though it has medicinal uses it isn't worth harvesting.




Photographs really don't do Valle de la Luna justice.

As I drove through the desert to Antofagasta I couldn't believe that the desert was even more barren, a great reason to sleep most of the way!

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Across the Salt Flats and the Atacama Desert

Uyuni, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, three days crossing the most amazing scenery I've seen so far in South America. The Salt Flats in particular amazed me, the hexagonal patterns the salt makes are beautiful. Also the first time I've stayed in a hotel made of salt bricks and slept on a bed made of salt, thankfully with a mattress on top!


Fun in the Salvador Dali Desert


Green lagoon wasn't so green!


Getting up at 5:30am for sunrise was worth it just for the length of our shadows.


Sunrise


Sunset


Wandering around an active volcano!



Red Lagoon


The barreness of the driest desert in the world amazed me, 0.5mm of rain each year.


A target tame llama. I've decided llama meat is just as yummy as alpaca meat.


A four year old toilet attendant, making sure we all paid our two Bolivanios while her Mum worked in the shop.


Cutting salt bricks, only indigenous people are allowed to do this. They sell for about a US$1 each.


Salt Flats


An island in the midst of all the salt. The cacti grow 1cm per year, so they're protected.



I was amazed by the patterns in the salt, almost always hexagons (something to do with the molecular structure of salt).


Fighting with a dinosaur! Perspective is very writer in such a flat place.


The salt hotel we ate lunch at, like the one we stayed at that night, even the table and stools were made from salt.

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